Chemically Relaxed Hair

A proper analysis of both hair and scalp is necessary before any chemical service. If scalp shows signs of irritation, do not proceed until healed.

To determine if hair is in sufficient condition prior to a coloring service:

Hold a strand of dry hair between thumb and index finger firmly at the root. With other hand, pull at ends. If hair breaks easily, do not proceed until hair has been reconditioned and re-tested.

The greater the degree of porosity, the more quickly hair will absorb. To determine how quickly hair will absorb color:

Hold a strand of dry hair between thumb and index finger. With other hand, slide fingers downward from end to scalp. A feeling of roughness reveals a degree of porosity.
A lack of shine and matted feeling after shampooing are also signs that hair is porous/dry.

To determine appropriate timing and predict accurate results:

Mix small quantities of the formula to be used. If intermixing haircolor shades, use the same proportions as will be in the final formula. Apply the formula to a small (appx. 1/4") strand of hair, from scalp to ends, allowing it to develop until the desired shade has been reached. Follow timing instructions for each product.
Evaluate condition of the strand. If hair breaks easily, do not proceed until hair has been reconditioned and re-tested.
If color results are different than the shade desired, re-formulate and do another Strand Test.

Lower volumes of developer should be used whenever possible when coloring chemically relaxed hair. For choosing developer strength and formulating haircolor, use the following guide:

DESIRED RESULT:	RECOMMENDED DEVELOPER:	FORMULATION TIPS:
To match, deepen, or deposit haircolor To cover less than 30% gray	10 volume	To prevent an over-dark result on dry/porous hair, select a shade one or two Levels lighter than the desired result.
To lighten using haircolor To cover more than 30% gray	20 volume or 30 volume	Lighter results can be achieved with permanent haircolor by choosing a shade up to two Levels higher than the desired shade and mixing with a lower volume developer than is normally recommended for hair that is not chemically treated. (ex: Natural Level 2 - Dark Brown desires a Level 4 Light Brown. Mix a Level 5 with 20 volume.)
To lighten using powder lighteners	10 volume	Lightening the natural haircolor of chemically relaxed or permed hair will usually occur more quickly and can be achieved with lower volumes of developer than is necessary to achieve the same results on non-chemically relaxed hair.

NOTE: When lightening naturally dark hair, red, orange, and gold tones will always be predominant.

Use a clarifying shampoo before coloring if hair is heavily coated with styling aids, conditioning products, or curl activators; coating will interfere with color penetration.
Some haircolor can be applied immediately following a relaxer: Radiance, Beautiful Collection, and Jazzing.
If hair has recently been chemically relaxed/permed, it is necessary to wait one week and one shampoo before applying a Permanent Haircolor and the majority of Long-Lasting Semi-Permanent/Demi-Permanent Haircolors: Miss Clairol, Complements Haircolor System, Beautiful Collection Permanent, Textures & Tones, Torrids, Second Nature, and Luminize.

Chemically relaxed/permed hair generally requires less processing time. Strand test frequently to determine accurate color results.