Caring for Color-Treated Hair

VOLUME 4

Whether you 're updating a look or covering up the gray, it's got to look - and last!

Your client's concerns will range from color fading to hair damage and you're the expert they'll be entrusting with their hair. With the right advice and know-how, you'll have the tools to give your clients what they need.

Hair color 101

Did you know that H2O (water) is considered the biggest enemy of haircolor? This "universal solvent" dissolves more substances than any other liquid. If you think about it, as water swells the hair, it allows color molecules to escape, especially the smallest ones. The red color molecules are among the smallest, which is why you will tend to see more problems with fading when using red shades.

You may have clients that swim often or spend time in hot tubs. If so, you'll want to stress the importance of keeping their hair out of the water. As mentioned, water is the biggest enemy of haircolor. Add chlorine bleach to the mix and you've got big problems!

If staying out of the water isn't an option for your clients, Levin recommends a final low pH rinse to cut alkaline and residue on the hair. They should also consistently use a deep conditioner.

It's in the mix

To help your clients maintain their color and help prevent damage, always recommend color-care shampoos, conditioners and products. According to Dee Levin, Master Colorist and owner of Salon Norman Dee, stylists should recommend their clients use a shampoo for color-treated hair, as well as a color enhancer. Color enhancers contain direct dyes that impart tone to the hair or "refresh" colored hair. "The shampoo for color-treated hair retards fading and using a color enhancer once a week actually helps put color back into the hair." Chemically treated hair is more vulnerable to damage, but your client may not be aware of this. Whether they use a light spray-in conditioner or one that must be rinsed with water, you'll want to tell them that conditioning is essential.

Keep in mind that every client's hair is different, so conditioning needs vary. For the best defense against damage, suggest clients look for formulas containing the key ingredients like dimethicone, stearyl and cetyl alcohol and polyquaterniums.

Breaking clients' bad habits

Let's face it, everyone has bad habits - even your clients. As a stylist, you will have an opportunity to evaluate alternatives to help prolong the life of their color-treated hair. For starters, "Let clients know they need to comb wet color-treated hair from the ends to the scalp," says Levin. "Wet hair is weak, like a delicate dress. When it's dry, it's more like cotton and therefore more durable."

You will want to advise your clients against other bad habits that damage color-treated hair. For example, anything that causes tension on the hair, like rubber bands or hair clips, should be avoided.

According to Levin, sending clients home with a personalized maintenance program is key. "Being a stylist is about finding solutions and we are extremely influential when it comes to meeting their hair care needs. It's important to understand the products and be able to recommend a program."

Coloring your clients' hair is one thing - educating them on ways to maintain color and help prevent damage is another. Going that extra mile will help build those trusting relationships you'll work so hard to achieve. Remember, a happy client will be a loyal client!