When the Question Is Grey

VOLUME 3

As a stylist, you will need to learn how to work with all types of hair - curly, straight, fine, coarse - and, of course, gray hair. While you may think of it is a different color of hair, like brown or red, gray hair is very different in other ways too.

Clients with gray hair will depend on you to produce great results when they ask you to perm, color, cut or style their hair. These clients also look to you to help them understand how to care for the special needs of their gray hair, To be successful working with gray hair, here are the answers to some commonly asked questions.

What makes the hair grey?

As people age, their bodies begin producing less melanin, which is what gives hair its color. This is partially an inherited trait, which explains why some families tend to grey faster or earlier than others.

Why does grey hair "stick out" from other hair?

There are several reasons. First, it is simply more noticeable. Also, unpigmented hair tends to contain a medulla more often than naturally-pigmented hair. Some hair strands have one - some don't. The presence of a medulla can make grey hair seem stiffer. This may be why grey hair is often more coarse and "wiry" than other hair. Stylists can help clients select styling aids to produce the best results for their hair style.

How can I get better results when I color grey hair?

Make sure you use very thin hair partings to help you better coat the hair re-growth area with the coloring product. Whether you are applying color to the entire head of hair or only the re-growth areas, be sure to cover that part of the hair entirely with the product. As you apply and spread the color, make sure you aren't wiping any of the color off the hair. For best results, the coloring product must totally cover whatever part of the hair you are applying it to.

What about perming grey hair?

Grey hair can be permed with good results. There are perms designed for grey hair. These perms have a pre-wrap solution in them to soften and condition the hair before perming, making the hair more absorbent. This helps the perm "take" better, giving your client's hair a stronger and longer-lasting curl and more body.

Do you need to care for grey hair differently?

Grey hair is more susceptible to sun damage. Pigment in hair acts as a natural sunscreen. Hair that is brown, red, black or even blond contains melanin. Because the grey hair lacks melanin, the sun's UV rays will more directly attack the protein in the hair, causing damage to the hair shaft. Clients with grey hair should always use hair products with sunscreen in them, wear a hat or scarf when outside, wear a swim cap when swimming and apply a thick conditioner worn under their swim cap.

Are there any products people with grey hair should not use?

When your clients with grey hair select hair care products, they need to be extremely careful with any products that have color pigmentation added to their formula. If your clients with grey hair use these products, it may cause their hair color to change to something they weren't quite expecting!